The household gathered for the evening meal. It was one of the few times of the year that both the Great Lord, his family, and the people who worked for him, gathered together in the same room. It was very important that everyone participate according to the rites to ensure a prosperous new year. Each part of the ritual, from what was eaten to how it was eaten to who ate first and who ate last was proscribed in detail by tradition and belief. The closer one stayed to the structured ritual, the more prosperity would flow in their direction. 

Fish, especially catfish, was the most auspicious food. The word for “catfish” sounded amazingly like the word for “year surplus” and everyone wanted a surplus in their belly. Whoever could get a catfish would eat it during the festival.

The Great Lord and his Wife were seated at opposite ends of a small table. Elder Brother and Younger Brother sat on either side of the same table. The rest of the residents of the household sat or stood in various places around the room, bowls and eating sticks in hand. Once everyone was assembled, Yin Su’s mother brought the steamed catfish into the room and placed it on the table with the head pointed toward the Great Lord and the tail pointed toward his Wife. Steam rose from the succulent fish and spread an aroma throughout the room. The observers shuffled as their mouths began to water and stomachs growled. The rather large fish was positioned on a bed of greens so that it seemed to be swimming through seaweed. It was served as it lived, all pieces intact, complete, the better to symbolize complete prosperity for the coming year. As she placed the platter on the table Yin Su’s Mother looked at the Great Lord and said, “May you always have more than you need!”

The Great Lord nodded acknowledgement in her direction and murmurs of approval spread around the room. He smiled at Yin Su’s Mother, then turned his gaze to his wife and nodded in respect. Her eyes traveled from Yin Su’s Mother back to meet her husband’s. She did not smile. 

The Great Lord spoke to everyone assembled. “We have had a prosperous year. We gather now to prepare for another, even better.” His sons and wife sat quietly as he began to eat. Without moving the platter or the fish he adroitly used his eating sticks and pinched the skin of the catfish just behind the head and pulled it away from the flesh. He stripped away the top fin and placed it to the right side of the platter. The exposed flesh gave rise to more steam, increasing the enticing aroma. He pushed his eating stick into the flesh closest to the head and managed to tear off a bite-sized chunk. Everyone watched as he placed it in his mouth and chewed. His delight with the flavor was obvious. He nodded to everyone in the room and especially to Yin Su’s Mother who was now standing to the side. He repeated the process two more times. He then took another bit of flesh and offered it to his wife. She gazed deeply into her husband’s eyes as she allowed the bit of food to be put in her mouth. She chewed and could not help but smile with the delicious flavor. She, however, did not acknowledge Yin Su’s mother but continued to hold her husband’s gaze. 

The Lord put down his eating sticks indicating that he had had enough. His wife took her eating sticks, procured several bites, and laid her eating sticks on the table. Elder Brother now took a bite and ate, followed by Younger Brother. When all four pairs of eating sticks were in position indicating a sated state, new dishes of dumplings, yams, and sweets were brought to the table. The gathering of people began to move toward the kitchen where they were fed bits of fish and rice. Everyone ate well. 

Full bellies bring a feeling of contentment and gaiety. Laughter filled the house. As night fell, everyone meandered to the courtyard and was milling around, waiting. The Great Lord emerged from the house and stepped to the center “It is time for the final ritual for prosperity. The Kitchen God must be sent on his way.” He motioned toward Yin Su.

 For the first time, Yin Su would be allowed to perform this part of the ritual entirely on her own. All eyes were on her. A clapping of hands spread through the assembled household as she brought out the fresh nian gao. Her recipe had worked perfectly, and now, three round cakes the color of burnt orange quivered on the platter. At the center of the platter lay the Kitchen God.

 Yin Su picked up the Kitchen God and held him high over her head for everyone to see. The straw that composed his body was dirty and slightly greasy from being in the kitchen near the cooking fires and fumes from the food. The red ribbons that held him together at the neck, waist, wrists, and ankles were faded from the sunlight that flooded the kitchen in warm months. The kitchen was the best place for him to observe everything that went on in the house. He would soon report his findings to the Jade Emperor who would judge the goings-on and bestow either prosperity or punishment to all involved. 

The crowd clapped and laughed as Yin Su twirled with the Kitchen God held high so that he might get one final look at each person. She brought him down and stared at the place she imagined his eyes would be. She went to the platter and cut a small piece of nian gao. With the nian gao held between her fingers, she smeared it on the straw where his mouth would be if he had one. The nian gao was extremely sticky and it fused several pieces of straw on his head. Everyone cheered and clapped. If the nian gao were sticky enough, the Kitchen God would be unable to speak and the Jade Emperor would not learn of any misgivings happening in the house. In the absence of direct proof of misdeeds, perhaps the Jade Emperor would give prosperity anyway. At least that was the hope of everyone present.

A fire of short bamboo segments was piled high over tinder to help send the Kitchen God on his way. The bamboo had been dried and cut into pieces so that each piece had two or three nodes of encapsulated hollow parts. When the fire heated the bamboo, the air inside would explode sending sparks flying and creating a loud boom. The Kitchen God would be consumed by the fire and his spirit would be carried to the Jade Emperor. Sparks from the small explosions would add velocity to the Kitchen God’s journey.

Before the Kitchen God had time to protest and perhaps remove some of the sticky nian gao, Yin Su held him over a flame and set him afire. She threw the burning effigy in the center of the burning bamboo. Everyone cheered. The act of throwing him to the fire caused some of the flame to extinguish. Still, he continued to burn. 

The flame increased, then suddenly turned to smoke. No bamboo exploded. The body was charred and black. The head was mostly intact with the nian gao still evident. The fire was not strong enough to consume the effigy. Then the fire went out. Silence filled the courtyard. This was not a good omen. Yin Su did not know what to do. She looked toward her mother, who was staring, wide-eyed at her terrified daughter. 

Yin Su sensed movement and turned to see the Great Lord approaching the effigy with a burning stick from the cook fire. He nodded to a trusted servant who got the message and quickly gathered more tinder to go underneath the bamboo. The Great Lord touched the burning stick to the tinder and the effigy in several spots, particularly the head with the flaming end and once again the fire lived. Several people came forward and fanned the new flames gently. Slowly the fire grew. Everyone cheered when a small pop was heard and a few sparks flew. Then another pop. And another. This time the flames consumed the effigy entirely.

The Great Lord saw the frightened faces around him. In his most comforting voice, he declared, “Sometimes the gods need a little more help on their journey. I am sure the Kitchen God will report my assistance to the Jade Emperor.” 

Nervous laughter filled the air. He continued, “Let us all wish the Kitchen God safe journey and enjoy the remaining nian gao.” He turned and entered the house. Yin Su’s mother came forward and cut the nian gao into small pieces. She offered the pieces to the Lord’s family and then to everyone else. The tone was subdued as the rich, sticky cake was consumed.

After everyone departed, Yin Su found her mother’s comforting arms. Tears rolled down her face. Great sobs wracked her body. She failed to complete the ceremony as intended. Destruction would reign down on the house. And it would be her fault. 

© Copyright 2025 Writing_Cheri. All rights reserved.