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No, as to the documents signed.  I'll give you a very thin hint: two words whose Pitman outlines (and thus, whose consonant structures) are very similar, ending with the 'small shun hook', except that one of them is plural--simple 's'.

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Over to amy, I'm still clueless!  LOL  At least I've only read one chapter, so I believe I have a solid excuse for my ignorance  hehehe

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As I wrote elsewhere, I've got two frustrating distractions, and I'm trying to recraft Erevain and his chapters.  I'm trying, but so is the task.

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(Over to amy, I'm still clueless!  LOL  At least I've only read one chapter, so I believe I have a solid excuse for my ignorance)

Nah.  New Jersey hoards his clues.  I pick on him all the time for this.  Doesn't mean that I won't keep trying to figure it out because I like him.  It's just when he complains about having to 'dumb it down' for the average reader, he doesn't seem to realize he's talking about me.  (sticks out tongue, blows raspberry into the ether.) 

To give him credit, I have learned a lot about outline chapters because of reading his material.  He is building the foundation of a great story.  Once these chapters are in place, he has the ability to flesh them out and add the pieces that are missing.

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You make it sound like I know something.  If I know something, I don't know it.

You're hoarding clues, too.  Clues, too, yes, you!  (AABA)

I do need to get stuff out.

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I recognize that I'm a hypocrite.  Truth.

A

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pft, who are you calling average?! I read romance and watch dumb action movies because I think enough as it is.  big_smile

I hate not being able to figure out things, which is surprising given the rate things usually fly over my head! LOL

* hauls a spreadsheet over * <------ one for njc and one for amy! big_smile

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Just keep walking njc! wink

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AAARGHHHH!  More spreadsheets!  (Hey, can I see?)

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Sigh.  Circuit changes aren't enough ... but I think I see ones that are.  I have to see whether they would make the voltage detector too sensitive to the battery voltage.  The L07011 and TN0620 mosfets can take the extra voltage.  Hmmm.

Re: The Sorcerer's Progress

njc wrote:

Sigh.  Circuit changes aren't enough ... but I think I see ones that are.  I have to see whether they would make the voltage detector too sensitive to the battery voltage.  The L07011 and TN0620 mosfets can take the extra voltage.  Hmmm.

Am I reading this correctly - there are a few circuit changes that would help to fix your problem (or rather one of your problems), but you need do something more than simply circuit changes?  And then it depends whether the voltage detector can handle it?

Have you mentioned mosfets before?  I can't recall ...

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I see I have to explain.  'mosfet', also MOSFET => Metal Oxide Semiconductor Field Effect Transistor.  More properly Insulated Gate Field Effect Transistor (IGFET) because metal oxide is just one of the things used for the gate insulator.  Mosfets belong to the FET family.

There are two big families of transistor-type devices, junction-based and field effect.  FETs are used for dense logic circuits because they can be made very small and the insulated gate variety draw power only when the logic state changes.  Eack kind has its strengths and weaknesses, but the preponderance of logic circuitry means that many more FETS are manufactured.

BJTs (Bipolar Junction Transistors) operate by a current controlling a current, and their gain numbers are unitless.  FETs are voltage controlling current, and their gain numbers have units of inverse resistance, which is conductance, so they are called transconductance devices.

I'm using a mix of them, trying to use each for its strengths.  You can get the datasheets for them via Google: ksc1845, ksa992, lp0701, tn0680.

My device has multiple modules: voltage detector, timer, flasher (with three multivibrator stages), a low-voltage detector for the battery, and a pilot light module (the three-way pigeon flasher).  There's also an input filter that faces the phone line, blocking the ringing signal, providing protection from voltage transients, and presenting a high impedance so that the box cannot affect the phone line.  The output from the filter goes to the voltage level detector, which is concerned with detecting on-hook and off-hook voltages.

The voltage detector, the timer, and the control parts of the flasher operate on three volts, provided by three-terminal regulators (commodity semiconductor parts) from the battery voltage, which starts as high as 6.4 volts with new cells, and drops to about 3.8 volts.  The undervolt detector (a commodity device with an adjustment provided by a BJT) turns on between 3.7 and 3.8 volts, and sends a signal to the 3-way pilot flasher to flash red, one very brief pulse roughly every six seconds.  The box as a whole will keep working to a bit under three volts, but the batteries should be replaced long before then.  It should be able to run the red flasher and the other circuitry for weeks before it stops working.

The voltage detector sends the off-hook signal to the timer, but it also sends off-hook and on-hook signals to the pilot flasher, causing it to flash yellow or green roughly every 20 seconds.  The rate will depends a little on the battery voltage, and also on which LED is being fired.

The problem is that the pigeon flasher is driven directly off the battery (to avoid wasting energy in the regulator) and the logic on and logic off levels it needs are not those provided by the voltage level detector.

Both the off-hook detector and the on-hook detector use a BJT as the first stage, surrounded by resistors that bypass them until a certain current (measured in the nano-amps to micro-amps) makes it through the high-impedence input filter (DC impedance over 30 million ohms).  What follows involves going from first-order approximations in theory to second-order approximations.

The low-level (off-hook) detector (which is bypassed and shut down when the high-level detector goes active) turns on and draws current from the positive rail through a resistor, causing the voltage between the resistor and the BJT to drop away from the positive rail.  This turns on a MOSFET that (a) drives a hysteresis circuit and (b) operates another MOSFET to invert the logic and drive the timer.

Now, I may be able to drive that resistor from the unregulated (battery voltage) rail instead, if two conditions hold.  First, the MOSFET has to be able to stand the gate going more positive than the source terminal.  It can, within limits.  I would be within those limits.  Second, the voltage drop would have to be enough to turn the MOSFET on in spite of the extra voltage to be overcome, and that extra voltage would effect the circuit's turn-on voltage to some degree.  Right now the resistor is 910 kilohms (all resistors having 5% tolerance in their values) and the turn-on current is about a third of a microamp, which means that I need about a three quarters of a nanoamp at the base of the first transistor (assuming a gain of 450 in the transistor at those current levels--see the datasheet).  Its base-emitter bypass resistor is about 7 megohms, and at those current levels the base-emitter turn-on voltage is around four-tenths of a volt, so it needs about 55 nanoamps  before it turns on.

Now, if instead of .4 volts to turn on the second-stage MOSFET, I need that .4 volts plust the possible 3.4 volts between the battery rail and the regulated rail, I will need about eight times the current at both output and input of the first BJT--that's six to seven nanoamps instead of three quarters after the 55 nanoamp bypass, a change from less than one percent to about ten percent, and -that- will change the input voltage threshold by the same ratio.

It appears that I can raise that 910Kohm resistor by a factor of five or so, reducing the current needed from the first stage transistor proportionally, and thus reducing the input current by nearly the same proportion.  (Refer to the datasheet; at these collector (output) currents, the gain drops as the current drops.)  This will reduce (but not eliminate) the load on the current through the input bypass resistor, and reduce the sensitivity to battery voltage.

The question to answer is what third-order effects occur.  At lower battery voltages, the input transistor will be saturated, which will reduce the effect of the hysteresis circuit and might make the stage resist turning on at all.  The quickest way to find out is to try it.

The added resistance will slow the turn-off of the detector output when the BJT turns off.  The output-side MOSFET's insulated gate input acts like a capacitor, storing charge (but not so linearly; see the datasheet) and must discharge through the resistor.  A larger resistor means a slower discharge, although the driving voltage will be higher.  So long as I'm under two hundred milliseconds, I figure I'm fine.  I can even tolerate a one-second with the box in use, but such delays make it very hard to measure the thresholds.

The high-level (on-hook) detector has similar issues, but they are magnified by the use of two BJT current amplifiers, and a third to bypass and shut off the low-voltage detector.  I'm not going to drag that out here unless you insist, but there are also interactions with the low-voltage detector to consider.

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Well, I have a tentative design.  Two, in fact, one for the off-hook line and one for the on-hook.  I'll have to test them tonight and see if the voltage thresholds are in range across the full range of allowable battery voltages.  I've been inconsistant about the lower end of the range, but if it works acceptably down to 3.25V (that's 13/16 Volt/cell) and up to 6.4V, I'll be reasonably happy.

The key is that the output stages of the detector and the input logic of the pilot flasher overlap.

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So New Jersey, you like the thrashing? Or are you using me to point out areas that need amplification so you don't waste your time on the ones that dont?

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In reference to what?

At the moment, I'm trying to type up some of the reworked Erevain episode.  I'm going to have to back off some of the changes.

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Here's the Little Fugue in g-Minor on the harpsichord.  The plucked timbre is a little bell-like and might appeal to Collin.  It's a slower recording.  This organ recording uses mostly sweet stops, somewhat bright and very articulate, with distinct chiff.

You can find youtubes of this piece played on guitars and by tuba ensembles!

Okay, Cesar Frank.  Hmm.  One of the 'problems' of classical music is that you have slow intros.  Still ...

Okay, here's a very characteristic recording of the Cantabile.  Not the first piece I would have chosen, but there are interesting harmony things going on.  It starts moderately, but does get a little louder.  It's possible that some of the stops will be too strident, but it shouldn't be outrageously so.

Here's a moderately registered version of the Toccata from Widor's Organ Symphony nr 5.

Liszt, Hungarian Rhapsody nr 2..

The Mahler Symphony nr 8.  I suspect its dynamics will be too much, at least for the first minute thirty-five.

HTH, as they like to say.

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Well, not too far down the road we see the children changing into beasts in Shogran's yard.  Does that convince you?

143 (edited by janet reid 2015-02-04 13:04:31)

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I probably should've asked this question sooner because if you agree (which would be a first! LOL  just for the record, I still like you njc despite this trait of yours where you refuse to budge, without it you won't be you so don't change - as if you'd change just because of my opinion, but thought I'd just mention it to be safe - so please keep it in mind if you agree and agree slowly and carefully as not to cause me falling off my chair or anything), I've just allowed you to go through a lot of pain and effort for not much gain.  So here my suggestion goes. 

You are trying to somehow connect this into the phone's "circuit" to detect when it goes off-hook if I understand correctly.  What type of phone does your mother have?  Wouldn't it be easier to install an independent (to the phone's workings) button that would also needs to be depressed by the handset otherwise the warning LED would activate.  Now, the issue with this is, how do you know your mother or someone else isn't using the handset?  I'd suggest having a timer based on how long she's usually on the phone before the LED's would flash to avoid this scenario where the LED would flash even though the phone is in use.  This is of course assuming this time would be acceptable before the LED needs to indicate the handset isn't placed correctly.  But it's not a biggy I think, as it would just help to make sure the handset is placed back correctly too.

Or is this really an over-simplified way of looking at the issue at hand?  Or what am I missing?  I'm really trying to help out here!  Unlike someone else who's name I won't mention who keeps on plastering silly Simpson's pictures all over the site that looks a lot like his book cover colour scheme *ducks*  please don't cry, K, we also like you just the way you are!  big_smile

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First, it has to be something that she doesn't operate.  She won't be bothered to do it.

Second, it detects the off-hook state by the DC component of the voltage on the phone line.  On-hook is a nominal -48v, but it can range from about 30 to 54 volts (negative).  Off-hook should be around -7 volts, but again it can vary--and the standard design Bell System phone varied the volume fed back from the microphone to the earpiece (called the sidetone) to coax you to speak louder on a connection with a longer wire to the central office.  You were made into the gain control adjustment.

Hold buttons generally hold the line near -12 volts.

Re: The Sorcerer's Progress

Idea #2

On one of our projects at work we needed loading arms to be replaced before tanker drivers were allowed to disconnect. The instrumentation guys used some or other connector switch with a spring loaded mechanism. The same concept could be applied to a handset I guess .... Should be heaps easier than playing with voltage ranges if you can find a connector that would do the trick?

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janet reid wrote:

Idea #2

On one of our projects at work we needed loading arms to be replaced before tanker drivers were allowed to disconnect. The instrumentation guys used some or other connector switch with a spring loaded mechanism. The same concept could be applied to a handset I guess .... Should be heaps easier than playing with voltage ranges if you can find a connector that would do the trick?

It requires mechanical work that potentially interferes with the phone.  It will be different for each phone model.  It will require extra wiring, and it will have to survive being tangled in a blanket without making the problem worse.

Sensing the voltage on the line has none of these problem, and it is a universal solution so long as you have POTS (Plain Old Telephone Service--yes, it's an industry term).  Given that I need timer and flasher, and that I want a box that will run for years on one set of batteries, the voltage detector is a reasonable increment of work.

The question is whether I'm better off with discrete components or with a solution based on MOS integrated circuits.  At this point, if I were starting with what I know now I think I'd look at a solution involving the three-terminal ICs I'm using for undervolt sensing ... but that's hindsight and I'm just tuning the design now.

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K, you would make a terrible henchman.

NJC, consider a soup can and a very long string.

Janet, you're a dear.

148 (edited by njc 2015-02-05 00:58:51)

Re: The Sorcerer's Progress

The varying battery rail voltage opened a weakness in the design that I papered over before.  All is not lost.  It's not even really misplaced.   A little more attention shows that I should have a couple of resistor values balanced differently.  If I move one additional resistor and (perhaps) make it as big as practical, I should be able to square things up.  I may have to adjust another value or two to put the thresholds where I need them.  I'm working with currents so small that even a good digital voltmeter will draw enough current to completely change the circuit's behavior.  Ah, for an old-time vacuum-tube voltmeter!

I found the misbehaviour by spending an hour carefully setting supply rail voltages and testing the thresholds and outputs.  Lab work is tedious but important#########critical.

It's getting too late to make that trip to Home Depot today.  I have to get some brackets and mending plates, and I'll have to drill and tap the latter.  They're made of good, hard steel, so I'll have a very sore wrist when I'm done.  But not tonight.

(I broke a tap in one of the durn things learning how to do it.  Enough oil, and back the tap frequently to break the chips.)

Now, to the review for Amy.

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KHippolite wrote:
janet reid wrote:

Unlike someone else who's name I won't mention who keeps on plastering silly Simpson's pictures all over the site that looks a lot like his book cover colour scheme *ducks*  please don't cry, K, we also like you just the way you are!  big_smile

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/8c/d3/db/8cd3dbae307e9ebf192081de1018245e.jpg

At least no fingers have been harmed in making this picture ......  big_smile

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Changes tested.  Improvement real but not nearly good enough.

Summary: a state change must flip two swiches at once.  Before it did at some voltages, but its behavior was far too voltage dependent.  The problem was that the 'action' connecting the switches moved them at different rates, but they just happened to line up right.  Now I've got the movements roughly matched, but there is still some battery rail dependency, and I don't see the cause.  If I have to I can live with this, because it's a half-volt zone in between the on-hook and off-hook states ... but I'd like to know what's happening.

A quick look at the circuit, then sleep!